The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass, with medicinal blackberry and cherry encased in an air of crushed stone and violets. This is lifted and pure, yet still quite potent, delivering silky textures and ripe red and black berries that flow effortlessly across the palate. While structured, it’s not achingly so. Instead, fine tannins mingle with minerals and purple-tinged inner florals through the fresh finale. (EG)