This is a selection of five to ten percent of the oldest vines in Gravières red production, and each bottle is numbered. The seriousness starts on the nose and continues through to the textured, lightly chewy finish. The structure takes the lead with dense, corralled tannins and nippy acidity. It is well buffered by ample extract and a long, reverberating palate of forest berries and spices. This needs time to sort out, but it has plenty of promise.

The 2023 Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru consists of five barrels this year. The fruit was picked a little earlier than the regular cuvée, exclusively from their parcel of 90-year-old vines, after which a selection is made so it represents five to ten percent of the production. This is very pure and composed on the nose with fine mineralité and raspberry, wild strawberry and tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, pastille-like red fruit and a silkier texture than the regular cuvée. This has fine length, ranking alongside the previous vintage and may even surpass it. It is excellent.(NM)

barrel selection from among the old vines. There will probably be 4 barrels. A full crimson ruby. The nose is more backward, the intensity of darker red fruit notably more intense, especially at the back of the palate. This will take quite a lot more barrel elevage, but should be very fine. Impressive density without losing refinement. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.