The 2022 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of plums and cherries mingled with smoke, licorice and rose petals. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit, sweet tannins and lively acids, this harmonious but authoritative wine is one of the highlights of the Ponsot range this year. Domaine Ponsot began picking red grapes on September 6, a comparatively early start for this historically late-harvesting domaine, producing a crop of powerful but charming wines that are less overtly broad shouldered than their 2018, 2019 and 2020 counterparts. As ever, complete destemming, minimal sulfites, and élevage in used barrels are the order of the day. The range also includes a Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon that had just concluded a late malolactic when I visited and was consequently not entirely put together, and a Cuvée Hypolite, from the domaine's oldest vines planted in 1950s in their original historic parcel of Clos de la Roche, which is more brooding and deeper pitched than the regular cuvée.(WK)