The Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino is always one of the best whites not just in the denomination but in all of Italy, and the 2023 is no exception. Made with organically farmed grapes – 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano cultivated in volcanic soils - and fermented and aged in tulip-shaped concrete tanks, it opens with aromas of white spring wildflower, citrus, wet flint, Alpine herb and stone fruit. It’s dry and delicious, delivering pear, Myer lemon, dried herb and smoky mineral notes before closing on a saline tang. The advanced age of the vines, 30-60 years old, lends great depth while fresh acidity keeps it balanced and lends serious aging potential. ( KO)