Selected from a north-facing, two-hectare plot planted between 1998 and 2001, this animated Gran Selezione is less reductive than past examples. The estate has introduced Tuscan wood casks with a more open grain said to lend perfume. Indeed, penetrating lavender essence and rosemary suffuses black currant. Robust and dense, the palate continues in that dark berry vein, bringing in accents of bay leaf and mint. Compact but sweet tannins tug at the teeth with a decisive chew, and the acidity is equally concentrated; best to wait a couple of years. (MM)