The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru showed more reduction on the nose, yet there is clearly a lot of intensity here. It's slightly more resinous than its peers, containing touches of melted candle wax and lanolin. The palate is well balanced and poised, with a keen silver thread of acidity and real energy building toward an assertive and complex finish. It is far superior to the 2022 when I tasted it last year. This is superb. (NM)

About a quarter of these vines were planted in 1936 with the remainder planted in 1962 and 1967. Benoît says they are very millerandé (berries in the same cluster differing greatly in sizes). The heightened concentration and intensity is clear in the glass, yet the tamed ripeness keeps the wine from feeling too big. Marked acididty nicely defines the palate of apple pie, baked yellow cherries and candied lemon peel. This is a lively one!

Note: from an impressive 1.1 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines in Champ Canet proper though some of them were planted in 1938 at the same time as the Bienvenues. Very firm reduction is such that the lightly wooded nose reveals nothing today. By contrast, there is good verve to the delicious and attractively textured flavors that aren't quite as dense as those of the Truff but, also somewhat unusually, they do display more minerality on the bitter lemon zest-inflected finale.*Burghound Outstanding!*