Some of the most interesting French Pinot Noirs these days may not be coming just from Burgundy. Sancerre and its surrounding appellations have a long history with Pinot, though for years there weren’t many truly compelling examples. Over the past decade or two, that’s changed dramatically. Vineyards that once devoted their Pinot to rosé are now producing reds with greater depth, ripeness, and character. Still distinctly cool-climate in feel, Sancerre Pinot Noirs offer spice, freshness, and a savory edge that set them apart. I love the direction these wines are heading and find myself rethinking them every time I taste one. Aurore Dezat—one of our most popular white wine producers from the region—also crafts a standout Pinot Noir with her partner David Girard, from parcels planted mostly on silex soils. The wine shows bright, spiced cherry and raspberry fruit, accented by hints of baking spice and red flowers on the finish. It’s an absolute delight: full of Burgundian sensibility, yet at a far more approachable price.