There is plenty of sauvage character to the ripe red and black cherry scents that display ample amounts of forest floor. The exceptionally generously proportioned flavors are rich to the point of opulence while exuding a lovely bead of minerality that adds a sense of vibrancy to the muscular and powerful finish where the supported tannins are pronounced. This youthfully austere effort is perhaps riper than a classic example but one aspect both have in common is that built-to-age quality. *Outstanding!*

Another strong effort, the 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) offers up aromas of cassis, orange zest, spiced plums and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless palate that lends this rendition an unusual immediacy. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields were high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.(WK)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a more meaty bouquet compared to the Estournelles—perhaps without quite the same degree of purity—with just a very subtle savory/dried blood tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. The acidity is well judged and there's real heft on the finish. At the moment it's a bit of a "blunt instrument" so to speak, but time will shave its edges, and its delineation and silkiness are commendable. (NM)