The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which was shown as a blend of foudre and barrel, really shows its class (as usual). It is blessed with much more delineation and mineralité than the Estournelles or Lavaux, soaring in the glass with vivacious red fruit and just a subtle flintiness in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It does not quite possess the ambition of the 2022 and is perhaps a little stricter, but I adore the hoisin-tinged finish and sustained peppery aftertaste. There is class here, and this should age easily for 20 to 25 years. (NM)