Showing all the delights of Chenin with bottle age: fleshy apples, honey, grilled pineapple and a faint hint of kerosene. It starts lush and concentrated then explodes with a citrus intensity, driving towards a wall of steel, flint and minerals. A soft, rich exterior is wrapped around a fierce gunmetal-hard core. Nudging the £50 mark but worth splashing out on, especially if you're having pork and apple sauce. (NE)