2023 Antinori "Cervaro della Sala" Chardonnay Umbria

Youthfully coy, the 2023 Cervaro della Sala blows off an air smoky reduction to reveal depths of crushed yellow apples, sesame seeds, pine shavings and nuances of vanilla custard. This is pure elegance in the glass, as silken textures envelop the palate. A bump of residual acidity maintains energy throughout, even as the 2023 tapers off tannic and potent, with a resonance of mineral-infused apricots. This is a suburb rendition of Cervaro della Sala. (EG)

The 2023 Antinori "Cervaro della Sala" confirms its status as the undisputed King of Italian white wines. Year after year, this is the benchmark against which all other ambitious Italian whites are measured, and the 2023 vintage is a stunning display. Produced at the historic Castello della Sala in Umbria, Cervaro was one of the first Italian whites to undergo malolactic fermentation and aging in barrique, aiming for a longevity and complexity comparable to the great Grand Crus of Burgundy. The nose is a profound with opening with notes of chamomile, white flower blossoms, and flint, which slowly give way to ripe citrus, golden apple, and a sophisticated touch of vanilla and toasted hazelnut from the oak. It is rich but incredibly fresh. On the palate, the wine demonstrates its signature power. The Chardonnay provides a creamy, enveloping texture and deep fruit concentration, while the small percentage of Grechetto acts as the spine, delivering a savory, vertical acidity that keeps the wine vibrant and precise. The finish is exceptionally long, saline, and mineral-driven. This is a white wine built for the cellar. While it is undeniably delicious now—especially if decanted and served in a large glass—it will develop savory, honeyed complexity over the next 10-15 years. If you want to understand one of the absolute of Italian white winemaking, this is the bottle to own.