The 2023 Riesling Steinterrassen Federspiel is a pre-harvest of the four single sites for Riesling of the estate, Setzberg, Hochrain, Steinporz and Singerriedel. Fragrant citrus foliage combines its headiness with the creaminess of pale apricot. The palate has concentration and citrus, but also the fleshiness of ripe stone fruit, the generosity of creamy ripeness, then pulled back into line by sheerest citrus. This is aromatic, always shimmering with citrus foliage while playing a riper game. The 2023 is lovely, intriguing and animating. The finish and the length belong to citrus peel. (Bone-dry)(AK)