Issuing from 35-year-old vines in mid-slope, facing west and southwest, Samuel Billaud’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains was matured in tank. The bouquet reveals citrus zest, white flowers and oyster shell, while the palate is medium to full-bodied and ample yet elegant, with bright, balancing acidity and a persistent mineral finish. This Montmains offers classic Chablisien character and is produced from purchased fruit. Samuel Billaud established his own state-of-the-art winery in the center of Chablis in 2009, and he has emerged as one of the village’s top four or five producers, crafting wines characterized by textural seamlessness and precision. Working with four hectares of organically farmed estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes (for which Billaud decides the harvest date, and his team usually picks the fruit), harvesting of ripe yet vibrant fruit is the rule here. This is followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in stainless steel tank and/or used wood (mostly 500-liter barrels from Tonnellerie Chassin), then maturation for 13 months on the lees for Petit Chablis and Chablis Village and 15 to 18 months for the premier cru and grand cru bottlings. His wines are bright, nervy expressions of Chablis with plenty of concentration and length. Producing classy wines of crystalline purity, this address already belongs on any list of Chablis's best. (KK)

In stainless steel, to bottle in September. The vines are located at the start of the valley. Pale in colour, strict on the nose, pleasingly stony though the clay also gives some bottom to the wine and a minor reduction. Long finish on citrus, including grapefruit.

The 2023 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru comes from the middle of the valley, 35-year-old vines. It has a slightly chalky bouquet, touches of yellow flowers and fresh pear. The palate is fresh on the entry, and very linear in style (especially compared to the previous vintage), leading to a lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. Definitely this is worth seeking out. (NM)