From seven tiny parcels in and around the lieu-dit of Pignan (sandy soils), the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Les 7 de Pignan looks to be even better than the debut 2020 (none was bottled in 2021). Seductive notions of stone fruit, roses and black tea leaves show incredible complexity and elegance in this full-bodied wine that's concentrated and tannic yet supple, finishing long and velvety. Wow. The irrepressible Boirons (Nicolas and his wife, Jeanne-Claire) were their charming, smiling selves when I arrived at their cellars on the edge of the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, joined by consultant Emmanuel Gagnepain, who has succeeded Philippe Cambie at this estate. Overall, the family farms 32 hectares of vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, plus five hectares of Côtes du Rhône (under the Famille Boiron label). The farming and winemaking here is fairly traditional, with the white made mainly in stainless steel and the reds mainly in foudres—at least for the Cuvée Tradition; the special cuvées, made in smaller volumes, tend to go into demi-muids. The red wines are typically at least 75% Grenache, with an increasing proportion of whole clusters in recent (post-Cambie) years. (JC)