2022 Domaine Bernard et Thierry Glantenay Pommard 1er Cru "Les Rugiens"

Deep and layered, Glantenay's 2022 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens unfurls in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, spices and licorice. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a lively core of fruit that's framed by an abundance of sweet, powdery tannins, it concludes with a long, aromatic finish. The unassuming but passionate Thierry Glantenay continues to produce delicious, sensual wines in his cellars in Volnay. In 2020, he put an end to roganage (trimming the vines) by tractor. instead, Thierry now trims by hand, with shears, letting the canopies grow higher (in emulation of his upstairs neighbor in Les Rugiens, Thomas Bouley). In the winery, Glantenay prefers to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum during classical macerations in cement vats. He presses gently, and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels.(WK)

Planted in 1935. 4 barrels from 5 ouvrées in 2022, unheard of for them. One third whole bunch. A fine mid purple. The power is really well balanced here, nothing overtly opulent. Waiting for the nose to settle down, there is a greener touch here. Lovely texture in the mouth, good acidity, a very detailed wine of great promise. Tasted Oct 2023.