The 2022 Volnay Les Brouillards 1er Cru, which contains around 20% whole bunches, has a floral bouquet: wilted rose petals infusing the red berry fruit, a hint of baking powder coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and fine depth, quite sharp and citric towards the finish. Not a long or deep wine, but there's tension and angularity that I feel will enhance its showing at the supper table.(NM)

Aromas of sweet raspberries, orange zest, cherries and petals preface the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards, a medium to full-bodied, lively and mineral wine with a pretty core of fruit, powdery tannins and a chalky finish. The unassuming but passionate Thierry Glantenay continues to produce delicious, sensual wines in his cellars in Volnay. In 2020, he put an end to roganage (trimming the vines) by tractor. instead, Thierry now trims by hand, with shears, letting the canopies grow higher (in emulation of his upstairs neighbor in Les Rugiens, Thomas Bouley). In the winery, Glantenay prefers to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum during classical macerations in cement vats. He presses gently, and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels.(WK)

A fine crimson ruby. The bouquet signals the density to follow, with a balanced, intense dark red fruit, and a little touch of velvet behind. The fruit acid balance is impeccable and the tannins ripe. Still very backward, with a tannin or two at the back reminding us that Brouillards is close to Pommard. Tasted Oct 2023.