The 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Grossi Laüe is pure, bright and fresh on the deep, still reductive but coolish, precise and herbal yet well-concentrated nose. Full-bodied, refined and rich on the palate, this is a dense, generously fruity, highly complex and almost massive Riesling with fine salinity on the clear, precise and defined finish that is also long, intense and complex. This is a remarkably elegant and balanced Schoenenbourg Riesling that is slowly opening up. 13.5% stated alcohol. Diam cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2024. As always, the Hugel tasting with Jean Frédéric Hugel includes a range of vintages, with the 2022 being the youngest and the 2014, 2016 and sweet 2015 the oldest. The 2014 Schoelhammer from Schoenenbourg, which is not marketed as grand cru, is an outstanding Riesling from the vintage and even surpasses the estate's own still-very-superb grand cru Schoenenbourg, of which the 2014 and 2016 vintages are available for purchase. The 2016 Sporen is once again a great Gewürztraminer, and the generic Vendange Tardive also shows once more that Hugel is one of the best producers of this variety in Alsace. The same applies to the 2016 Pinot Gris, particularly from the Clos du Pflostig and the grand cru Sporen. Hugel is also contributing to the rapid upswing of the Alsace Pinot Noir, because the 2016 Clos du Pflostig is remarkably fine and elegant but also intense and has an irresistible umami flavor.(SR)