Billecart-Salmon’s 2012 Nicolas François marks the first release since 2008 and stands as another success. The fundamentals remain unchanged: settling and fermentation at low temperatures, a small proportion vinified in oak barrels and partial malolactic fermentation (20% was blocked in 2012). This vintage was characterized by a prolonged flowering period, significant rainfall and mildew pressure, resulting in a small crop. The harvest of fruit, which contributed to this cuvée, took place between September 17 and 22. "It was crucial to select only the ripest fruit, as maturation varied significantly between plots," explains Billecart’s head winemaker, Florent Nys. But what of the wine itself? Disgorged in May 2023 with a dosage of 3.8 grams per liter, it exudes aromas of candied lemon, honeysuckle and ripe peach, mingling with nuances of beeswax and orange zest. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and enveloping, boasting a layered, concentrated core, a chalky structure and mouthwatering acidity, despite the warm vintage. It concludes with a persistent, saline finish, hinting at the savory complexity that has emerged with such notable bottle age. Compared to the 2008, which remains tightly coiled, the 2012 is broader-shouldered and more demonstrative. (KK)

After the taut 2008 – a wine that leant heavily on the austerity of the year – the 2012 Nicolas François maintains an admirably frank and fat-free take on this intensely ripe, bright and concentrated vintage, further intensified by the recent move to lower dosage at the house. With its aromas of raspberry, pear and candied orange, the maturity of the year is certainly evident, although the wine carries a real squeeze of dried lemon-like maturing Chardonnay, feeling tight and racy right through to the close. Already showing some nutty maturity and brown pastry richness, it's a cuvée which has proven itself to age with aplomb over the last two decades. With a slightly finer natural balance and harmony than the 2008, the 2012 looks well set. (TH)

The 2012 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart shows all the natural radiance of the year. There's gorgeous resonance and texture here. Apricot, spice, tangerine oil and lightly honeyed notes infuse the palate with notable depth and persistence. This rich, expansive Champage has a ton to offer. This release was disgorged nearly two years ago, which also adds to its complexity...The significant increase in quality at Billecart-Salmon is no longer news, but it’s still worth mentioning. Quite simply, the Champagnes here have never been better. (AG)