2022 d'Yquem, Sauternes (375ml)

The first time I have tasted this vintage, as it was only released earlier this year, and it is a wonderful wine, generous, luscious, but absolutely balanced despite the heat of the vintage, with a twist of grated citrus, pineapple, white tea, bitter almond and candied orange peel. Layers of marmalade, white truffle, salted tarte tartin, a beautiful push and pull of opulence and acidity that is so essential in a vintage as concentrated as this. Will power through the years, no question. 160g/l residual sugar. Lorenzo Pasquini estate director.

Those who hit the mark with the 2022 vintage in Sauternes produced some monumental wines, so it’s no surprise to see Yquem right at the top of that list. A remarkable contrast to the focused and fresh 2021 vintage, the 2022 embraces the breadth of the unique growing season, adding layers upon layers to create a luxurious, heady Sauternes that reveals one nuance after another. Stone fruit, orange blossom, honey, and grilled pineapple are just a few of the many aromas and flavors bursting from the glass. But it’s the waves of flavor, beautiful texture, vibrant acidity, and endless finish that truly set this Yquem apart. As expected, there is so much on offer already that no one could be blamed for popping a cork at this early stage—but the concentration suggests this is a wine built for the long haul. A potential Yquem for the ages, the 2022 is a deep, resonant Sauternes that speaks volumes about the singular nature of this inimitable label.