Tenuta Favot, Aldo Conterno's winery, is one of the most splendid estates in the Langhe. The Colonnello vineyard is a 45- to 50-year-old Nebbiolo in Bussia Soprana. The wine is fermented in stainless steel then aged for 28 months in 25hl Slavonian oak vessels which are replaced every five years. This 2019 has a prominent fennel and dill aroma, restrained strawberry and cherry fruit, dried flowers, and vibrant blood orange and graphite depth. Firm and crisp, it develops on the palate with super-refined, elegant and sweet tannins, and an oaky finish at the moment. Like all great wines, it could be drunk now but with more bottle ageing it will develop even more of this bracing complexity. (AF)