An intense ruby purple. More concentration of the intense raspberry strawberry fruit. The Grasses Têtes is much tighter on the palate with a certain tannic austerity but such a concentration of fruit. Strawberry and raspberry together, definitely both dense and structured, will hold back until June before bottling. Drink from 2027-2032.

The most serious of these four cuvées is the 2022 Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes, a medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated wine evocative of blackberries, plums and dark chocolate. More primary at this stage in its élevage, it shows considerable promise. As I wrote last year, I'd heard murmurings of a renaissance at Domaine Bruno Clair for some time, so I've now added this address to my annual itinerary along the Côte d'Or. Evolution has indeed been underway: Farming is now very close to organic across the 24-hectare estate; yields are being limited more strictly in the younger parcels; superior vine genetics are being t-budded onto existing plantings; cover crops are the order of the day, with the frequency of cultivation reduced; trees are being incorporated within all new plantings; and now, in the winery, whole clusters are being systematically retained in significant percentages, while the frequency of punching down has reduced. What are the results? The pure-fruited style of the domaine, which doesn't push ripeness or percentages of new oak, remains very much intact, but it's actualized with more intensity of flavor and more expressive fruit.(WK)

Moderate reduction is sufficient to render the nose difficult to evaluate. By contrast, there is good verve and freshness to the seductively textured and caressing flavors that are blessed with an abundance of sap, all wrapped in a bone-dry, youthfully austere and solidly persistent finish. Worth checking out.*Burghound Outstanding!*