A stunning, brisk, salty, racy expression of Chardonnay—like a cold wind whipping off the white-capped ocean in spring. I love the tension and energy in this wine. The fruit comes from a vineyard near Annapolis, just south of the Sonoma–Mendocino border. The vines, planted in 1999 to Wente selection, sit at a 750-ft elevation, right on the fog line, in one of the coldest places in the country to grow grapes. Native-fermented and aged in 500 L puncheons, with just 20% new oak. Focused, bright, nervy Chardonnay with incredible length and mouth-watering acidity.