The 2024 Ode to Lulu is as fresh and attractive as ever, if a little richer, more caressing and less steely than in recent years. A rush of sweet, ripe peach and almond opens, building accents of mint, grapefruit zest and rosemary as it wraps the mouth in a blanket of gentle acidity and fine minerality. Consistency and value are undeniable here, especially considering the 120+-year-old heritage vines Bedrock pulls this fruit from. Best of all, Lulu ages gracefully in every vintage. I see no reason why that won't be the case in 2024, especially with a little extra meat on the bones. (BN)