There are some 7,000 bottles of the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, a cuvée where Didier Séguier permits himself the the luxury of using only Fèvre's best old-vine parcels and which is always one of the high points of the range. Wafting from the glass with notes of citrus oil, oyster liquor, white flowers and hazelnuts, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, saline finish. The 2022 crop is the penultimate vintage of organic conversion for the 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 16th year the estate has been practicing organic. It's a terrific success, exhibiting tension and precision that isn't universally to be taken for granted in this Chablis vintage. Beyond the quality of the wines themselves, the big news at this address, which has been managed with sagacity and competence by Didier Séguier since 1999, is its acquisition by Domaines des Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). I'm sure Fèvre couldn't have found a better steward for the future.(WK)

Some of the Vaulorent may be taken out to make a separate Fourchaumes bottling, that decision has not yet been made. More lime than lemon in colour, the nose is so stylish yet with obvious concentration beneath. I love the texture of this wine, which has taken on a little bit of the cashmere qualities of this sector, while nonetheless retaining its mineral core. Very stylish once again. Drink from 2027-2037.

William Fèvre is the largest owner of Vaulorent, which often behaves more like a Grand Cru—literally sitting smack against them on the same hill—than a Premier Cru. This wine leans more savory than fruity, but it has a little bit of something for everyone. Almond flour and iodine meet pluots and white peach. While there is good mid-palate concentration, the flux of bustling acidity takes center stage for now and will give this wine ample time to benefit from cellaring.