Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it's deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats. (AH)

Note: a domaine wine composed of <40% Butteaux plus 30% each of Forêts and Montmains proper. The cool and almost reticent nose makes clear that it could be from nowhere but Chablis with its array of prominent mineral reduction, shellfish and iodine-scented pear and floral aromas. The more refined if perhaps slightly less generous middleweight flavors possess both good volume and vibrancy on the lightly stony, persistent and balanced finish. This lovely effort should be more than capable of delivering 7 to 10 years of cellaring potential.

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains reveals aromas of green apple, pear, honey and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's taut, youthfully blocky and mineral. It shows good cellaring potential. The 2022 crop is the penultimate vintage of organic conversion for the 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 16th year the estate has been practicing organic. It's a terrific success, exhibiting tension and precision that isn't universally to be taken for granted in this Chablis vintage. Beyond the quality of the wines themselves, the big news at this address, which has been managed with sagacity and competence by Didier Séguier since 1999, is its acquisition by Domaines des Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). I'm sure Fèvre couldn't have found a better steward for the future.(WK)