2022 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Les Preuses"

The 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses wafts from the glass with aromas of orange zest, oyster liquor, brine and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's more and intensely mineral, underlining its role as the most ethereal of the grand cru climats. The 2022 crop is the penultimate vintage of organic conversion for the 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 16th year the estate has been practicing organic. It's a terrific success, exhibiting tension and precision that isn't universally to be taken for granted in this Chablis vintage. Beyond the quality of the wines themselves, the big news at this address, which has been managed with sagacity and competence by Didier Séguier since 1999, is its acquisition by Domaines des Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). I'm sure Fèvre couldn't have found a better steward for the future.(WK)

This is a bright and crunchy Preuses with tangy pear peel, digestive cracker and plumcot. Elegance dominates power here, even though there is plenty of both. There is a nice combination of racy acidity and crunchy limestone lightness that makes this weightless yet profound. Hold on to this as long as you can.