A charmer as ever, this is always a consistently over-performing Bougros. The vines were planted by William's father almost 60 years ago. Bold and open on the nose, there is good fleshiness on the palate, too. The counter-current of sassy acidity packages this into a charmingly balanced wine with an enviably long finish.

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, matured around one-third in used barrel, sports a subtle reduction on the nose that works to its favor: white flowers commingle with Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced and precise, harmonious with orange pith and nectarine, just a touch of praline. It builds nicely in the glass and then slams its foot on the accelerator right on the finish as if to say: That's all for now. One for the patient amongst you.(NM)

Once again there is plenty of mineral reduction character suffusing the aromas of ripe pear, soft wood and tidal pool. The rich, full-bodied and overtly powerful broad-shouldered flavors are robust but not rustic on the bitter lemon, dry and balanced finale. This also needs more depth but that is virtually always the case with young Bougros.