A whiff of exotic fruit lurks in the background of the aromas of white peach, spiced apple and seaweed nuances. Here too there is very good energy to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors thanks to the abundance of dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lemon zest-inflected finale. While this could also use better depth, the underlying material is here for that to occur in time.

Showing a distinct green tinge in the glass. Plenty of purity and finesse, but not as dramatic as some premier crus. Missing a bit of complexity at the moment, although this will evolve with more time in bottle. Didier Séguier emphasised the need to pick early to preserve freshness. 20% matured in old barrels after malolactic fermentation.(AH)

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy delivers notes of peach, orange oil and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's saline and fine-boned. This is a pretty, elegantly exotic Chablis that will offer a broad drinking window. The 2022 crop is the penultimate vintage of organic conversion for the 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre, though it's actually the 16th year the estate has been practicing organic. It's a terrific success, exhibiting tension and precision that isn't universally to be taken for granted in this Chablis vintage. Beyond the quality of the wines themselves, the big news at this address, which has been managed with sagacity and competence by Didier Séguier since 1999, is its acquisition by Domaines des Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). I'm sure Fèvre couldn't have found a better steward for the future.(WK)