30% new wood. Fresh mid purple. The bouquet is wonderfully lifted, Antoine explains they use a particularly light hand with this cuvee to avoid the potential austerity. The acidity is fine and the tannins are ripe, while there is still that clear backbone to the fruit which Vaucrains should have. Very persistent, and such high-class fruit.

The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru was picked towards the beginning of the harvest and is matured in 30% new oak. This is blessed with some of the best aromatics from Gouges: detailed and mineral-driven, a real and tangible sense of Pinoté here with a palpable sense of energy. The medium-bodied palate has filigree tannins, joyous red berry fruit and wonderful tension, fanning out with joie-de-vivre on the finish. The infusion/low sulfur regime plus fewer punch downs for this wine has really seen this achieve new heights.

Note: from a 1.08 ha mix of younger and older vines that average about 50+ years of age. As is the case with the Chênes Carteaux, there is a high-toned note of herbal present on the poached plum and sauvage-suffused aromas. I very much like the texture of the tautly muscular yet relatively fine middleweight flavors that exude a bead of minerality on the balanced, youthfully austere and impressively long finale. This is excellent. *Outstanding*