Michel Arnould, based in the Grand Cru village of Verzenay, is some of my favorite grower-producer champagne. Arnould's sub-$40 champagnes, the Observation & Acuite, are easily two of the best champagne deals in the store. The elegance and finesse of the Arnould champagnes rivals those of the big houses. The Observation Grand Cru Verzenay Brut Champagne, 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, is all from Verzenay, which sits at the top of the horseshoe that is the Montage de Reims where the vineyards face north - away from the sun. This produces crisp cool climate sparklers that are lean, mean, and beautiful. On the nose, it can only be champagne -- minerality, citrus, fresh bread, saline, smoke, and light red fruit. On the palate, precise, structured, with notes of hazelnut, lemon-lime, baked green apple, nectarine, fresh sourdough, and vanilla (barrel) with a surprisingly rich, creamy custard-like finish. Another fantastic expression from the 13th generation (starting in the 17th century) of Arnould growers, Michel and his son Patrick, along with son-in-law Thierry, and producers (bottling since the early 1900s, established as Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils in the 1960s). Finally, a reminder that magnums are the very best format for aging champagne. Drinking champagne from a magnum is almost cheating!