A beguiling blend of crushed blackberries, dusty currants, sage, tobacco and clove makes the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Schiena d'Asino impossible to ignore. It's a model of purity, medium-body and saline in character, with a core of rich dark fruits elevated by savory spices and brisk acidity that keeps the palate stimulated throughout. The 2016 finishes remarkably fresh, closing in upon itself as an air of balsam herbs resonates over a core of gritty tannins. (EG)

Planted in 1978, the 1.2ha Schiena d’Asino plot boasts a southeast to southwest exposition reaching almost 400 metres above sea level on stony, clay soil. Long ageing in 16-hectolitre French oak casks is followed by a year in bottle before release. The 2016 surfaces from its shell slowly and beguilingly, bestowing dried lavender, sage blossom and mint with a heady suggestion of truffles. The rich, dark red-fruited palate is framed by sandy, dusty tannins. Some heat rises on the mid-palate but is soaked up by plush layers, finishing on a salty liquorice note. (MM)

This is structured and muscular, yet in a toned and polished way. It’s full-bodied with a linear and racy nature, showing focused black-cherry, orange-peel and berry character. Flavorful and extremely long. Better after 2024.