Didier Séguier has crafted an absolutely brilliant example of Valmur in 2023. The wine delivers superb complexity in its nose of pear, green apple, fresh lime, a beautiful base of chalky soil tones, raw almond, citrus blossoms and a touch of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and impeccably balanced, with a gorgeous core of succulent fruit, a great girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive and grip and a long, vibrant and very precise finish. 2033-2070.

Starting with a whiff of smokiness, this moves into crushed chalk, rock salt, dried pear and pluot. This solid block of flavor is easily supported by the vigorous acidity and suspicion of (older) oak tannins on the slowly fading finish. Given its chilly positioning at the top—almost plateau—of the slope, this typically needs time, and it does again in this vintage.

Recently racked so a bit cloudy. Blocks the nose. A vast raft of white fruit, very spicy, liquorice notes as well, a volume of fruit over and above the Vaudésir, I can see why it is served afterwards. Quality reduction at the back, Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Jun 2024.