The 2017 Camarcanda is rich and heady in the glass, with all of the natural radiance of the vintage on full display. Ripe, racy and exotic in its beauty, the 2017 is a prototypical modern Maremma red. Generous fruit, racy contours and lifted savory notes add to its considerable allure. It, too, is arresting in its beauty. The 2017 offers plenty of voluptuousness, but with no excess weight. I loved it. Production is down 40% because of the low production of the year and then severe selection.

Subtle aromas of blackberries, fresh basil and violets follow through to a medium body with poise and focus and extremely polished, fine tannins. Chewy, yet refined. Give this two or three years to come together. Better after 2022.

I remember Gaia Gaja's comment to me when I visited Ca' Marcanda in 2017 right after the vintage. She told me that the heat and dry conditions had created "bonsai fruit." Diminutive cluster size due to drought gives the 2017 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda extra everything: extra aromatic intensity, concentration, structure and acidity. The winemaking team was careful to remove seeds before fermentation to avoid any greenness or astringency. However, this is a hot-vintage wine, and those aromas of blackberry preserves and baked plum leave no doubt about it. The wine is richly concentrated. In fact, this is probably the last vintage of Camarcanda we will see with this level of density. Steps have been taken since 2017 to assure more finesse in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.