The flagship wine of Domaine du Bel Air comes from an historic 1ha walled vineyard (clos). It impresses immediately with a deeply complex and savoury nose of black cherry, smoke and black olives. The palate is equally intense, with black spicy fruit, dark plums, black pepper and a touch of raisined character. The tannins are full but not grippy or hard; the finish is long and juicy. There is no weight or excess here, just a silky profile of understated, fine fruit. Approachable now, but will be drinking very well in the next five to 15 years. (BB)