2022 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Montrachet "Abbaye de Morgeot"

A fine pale lemon. The bouquet is delicious, refined gentle orchard fruit, with a little reduction too, quite refined citrus notes, but pure white fruit too. This is not a massive Morgeot, though there is adequate structure behind. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2023.

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot is sensual and charming, offering up aromas of peach, hazelnuts, white flowers, baking spices and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, with a fleshy core of fruits racy acids and a saline finish, this will offer a broad drinking window. The 2022 vintage is another success for Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, in style somewhat reminiscent, at this early stage, of the estate's 2020s. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I wrote last year, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, and he now feels he added more than was necessary—given these altered conditions—to his 2015s, 2016s and 2017s. So, some subtle adjustments have now been made in this regard, and readers can expect the wines to be a little less buttoned up out of the gates than has been the case in those three vintages. Now Pierre-Yves has so much space, he's also thinking about further extending the élevage of his lower appellations; in the next two or three years, he's contemplating fermenting and maturing them in 35