The fruit element is pure, evoking black currant and black cherry, matched to a savory side that delivers wild rosemary, iron, tobacco and eucalyptus notes. It's all tied together by vibrant acidity and refined tannins. A compelling marriage of power and finesse. Best from 2023 through 2042. (BS)

The 2016 is much more vibrant than the 2015, with fresh acidity and expressive layers of wood smoke, dried herbs and red berries. The tannins have resolved, still providing structure but making the wine drinkable now through to 2030. (MCK)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus is the second vintage from the Mazzei family’s Caggio property in Castellina. Soaring aromatics immediately announce a Sangiovese of real distinction and class. There is something wild and alluring about Ipsus that is hard to describe. It is at once incredibly polished and yet also quite assertive. Crushed flowers, cherry, pomegranate, blood orange, star anise and cinnamon add layers of exoticism as the 2016 opens in the glass. The 2016 is deep, full of character and incredibly persistent. If there is anything missing, it is a touch of freshness. Perhaps 32 months of aging (24 in tonneaux and 8 in cement) is a bit too much. Time will ultimately tell. This ambitious new wine from Mazzei is certainly going to be fascinating to follow. (AG)