This is simply brilliant Cristal, and a grand vin on the world stage. Somehow, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon has managed to make something that is singing on release and promises an extremely long life in good storage- if you can keep your hands off it. The intricate bouquet has subtle pastry crust, beautiful Meyer lemon and the elusive hazelnut aroma that I associate with the first village for this wine, the north facing grand cru of Verzenay. In the mouth it has the impossible combination of layered complexity and easy freshness. This is a wine for two people over the course of a meal- the sashimi bowls that we had with it were great, but I can imagine cracked crab working just as well. As for the finish- it was spectacular; expansive, shimmering acidity carrying the deepest chalky minerality out into infinity. This is a great treat, and I feel super lucky to have experienced it.

I cannot wait to see where this wine goes over time, but do not let that dissuade you from taking one home now. The nose is a bit quiet, but the length and structure of the palate just about leave you breathless. With excellent farming and sourcing, there is so much to be excited about in this bottle. It may be one of the earlier Tête de Cuvées released, but it is still clear just how much of a knockout the 2016 is. I recommend more than one, because once you pop one cork, you'll be itching to see how it evolves too.