2022 Roger Sabon "Le Secret des Sabon" Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Insider's Advantage
97-99RP
96-98JD
95JS
95WS
93-95VN
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97-
99
Wine Advocate
Reviewed May 2024Given this estate's track record, I wouldn't be surprised to see the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon flirt with perfection once it's bottled. For now, it delivers masses of cherries and raspberries on the nose, followed by a full-bodied wine that's somehow simultaneously light and airy, with a never-ending, supremely elegant finish. Fab stuff.
It's always a pleasure to taste with Didier Negron, who willingly shares his impressions of recent vintages in his very good, accented English. He likened 2021 to vintages of the 1980s, citing lower alcohols (14.5% versus 15.5%) and lower pHs (3.7 versus 3.8 or 3.9). According to Negron, the wines are less concentrated and less powerful, but the sanitary condition of the grapes was good. "It was important to look at the balance, not just the alcohol level, and to make a good picking decision."
In 2022, Negron explained that there is no Renaissance Blanc, as the vineyard was hit by hail. The few grapes that were harvested went into the red wines. At the time of my visit last summer, the Olivets and Réserve had recently been sulfured so were unavailable for tasting from cask, but I was able to taste the Prestige and Secret components. Fans of the estate won't want to miss those.(JC)
Professional Reviews
96-
98
Jeb Dunnuck
Gorgeous all the way, the 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Secret Des Sabon sports a deep, saturated purple hue to go with layered notes of black and blue fruits, ground pepper, liquid violets, graphite, and God knows what else. Deep rich, full-bodied, and unctuous, with moderate acidity yet incredible purity, it's up with the gems of the vintage.
Under the helm of Didier Negron, Domaine Roger Sabon plays in the top handful of producers in the Southern Rhône. The estate covers roughly 17 hectares and 15+ parcels, spread throughout the appellation, from which they produce four Châteauneuf du Pape cuvées. The entry level Les Olivets (which was first made in 1955) comes from younger vines and is completely destemmed. The Cuvée Reserve comes from a single vineyard and is 70-80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, aged in foudre and oak tanks. The Cuvée Prestige is based on 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest mostly Mourvèdre that’s aged in foudre, oak tanks, and demi-muids. The smallest production cuvée (there are usually just 100 cases produced), the Le Secret des Sabon is based mostly on a field blend of Grenache that’s raised completely in tronconique oak tanks. Looking at the latest releases, the 2022s from barrels all showed spectacularly well, with ripe, sexy, yet still concentrated and balanced profiles. This is clearly a great vintage here that might rival the 2019s. The 2021s show the fresher, more approachable and elegant style of the vintage, and the upper tier
95
James Suckling
A solid, well-built and vertical red with aromas of dark berries, dark plums, grilled herbs, warm spices and a touch of black pepper. Full-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Nice fruit at the center, with an array of dark cherries and blueberries mingling with the spices. The solid frame of tannins brings discipline and drive to the peppery finish. Try after 2028.
95
Wine Spectator
Gorgeous richness and depth with beautiful balance to the classic Châteauneuf burst of cherry, raspberry and iron in a flowing, broad frame. Well-integrated grilled applewood notes and good energy, too, with pronounced graphite minerality guiding the plush palate while maintaining freshness. Density builds towards the full finish, with flicker of incense smoke and lavender. Best from 2028 through 2040. —K.B.
Details
| Origin | Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France |
|---|---|
| Type/Varietal | Rhone Blends |
| SKU | 1802746 |