The 2021 Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg is harvested from 1956-planted vines that root in deep loess. The wine stays on gross lees for two winters. The second winter, so Ott, is crucial, as the yeasts pull back some of the richness they initially lent to the wine. This is immediately creamy on the nose, while the palate comes in with immense concentration. Zestiness and stoniness meet on the linear, precise frame. Lemon follows on this trail with urgency and insistence. This wine is a contradiction of everything you may think of loess. The finish is long and shows off a subtle but very becoming astringency, lending both structure and beauty. (Bone-dry)(AK)

The 2021 Ried Rosenberg 1ÖTW Feuersbrunn Grüner Veltliner opens with a clear, intense and deep sur-lie scented bouquet of crushed stones and, well, yeast. Pure, lean and fresh on the palate, this is a full-bodied Veltliner with a vivacious palate that quotes white fruits, fine tannins and lingering salinity. There are fine bitters in the finish. It is powerful but in a hidden way. Screw cap. Tasted in August 2023.(SR)

More savory than fruit-driven, this complex, smoky and multilayered version pulses with saline energy, offering salty earth and white mocha notes that coat a heart of spiced apple and quince. There's a brioche accent on the creamy palate, which is full yet vivid, with floral high tones. Lemony freshness and bitter radish spiciness take over on the long, rich and gorgeous finish. Drink now through 2031.