The 1982 L'Arrosée is my own contribution to a splendid lunch in London where all bottles were poured blind. It is a wine that I have fond memories of, especially when served in Hong Kong back in 2011. Of course, now it is part of the Clarence Dillon portfolio, merged with Tertre-Daugay and renamed Quintus. But the 1982 continues to sparkle. It shows only slight degradation on the rim. The bouquet is warm and inviting with clove, sage, roasted chestnuts all suffused by the red berry fruit, a touch of menthol surfacing with time. The palate is very well balanced, supple and rounded in the mouth (just as I have found on previous bottles) and marked by a fine line of acidity. There is still a sweet core of fruit here, hints of candied orange peel and clove towards a disarmingly pure finish. This has always been one of the 'dark horses' of the 1982 vintage and after 36 years it shows no sign of diminishing. Tasted blind at 'Philip's Belated February Christmas lunch.' Drink through 2030. (NM)