The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg Smaragd is picked in a lens of loess in this site known for its warmth, affording some water retention. Smooth, almost balm-like yeast has gentle pepper and promises richness. The palate is just as smooth and flowing, channeling its ripeness and fill into that cooling, smooth yeastiness that subsumes pepper and fruit and fills the mouth. Power and freshness become apparent in the aftertaste, which is still savory with fern and white miso. (Bone-dry)(AK)