A cuvée I would never bet against, Vincent Dauvissat’s 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is generously structured and leaps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of white peach, beeswax and lemon oil blending with marine flavors. Multidimensional and concentrated, it is supported by racy acidity and concludes with a long, chalky finish. At present, it is more fruit-forward and muscular than Les Preuses but not at the expense of the tension and chalky extract one expects from it. Which will ultimately prevail is open to interpretation, so at this early stage, I'll refrain from premature coronation. Vincent Dauvissat is one of the greatest vignerons in France, producing some of the most soulful wines not just in Chablis but across the entire Burgundy region. Dauvissat, who once considered a career as a shepherd, ultimately became a vigneron and, though technically retired, remains a vital presence at his eponymous domaine. His personality, both meditative and meticulous, is reflected in his wines, which, provided the cork holds well, are incredibly long-lived.(WK)

This is a majestic Les Clos hailing from three parcels that average 65 years in age. There is ample ripeness in the dense bushels of orchard fruits, but there is also pronounced tension that will give this wine the time to age to benefit—as it should. The upfront and fully ripe fruits one could enjoy now are nothing in comparison to the complexity that will unleash in the bottle. There is rigorous intensity here that the bustling acidity easily carries into the gloriously long finish. Please don't open it before ten to fifteen years past vintage!

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a wonderful bouquet, perhaps more mineral driven than Les Preuses, going up a gear since I tasted it from barrel last year. The palate is very well balanced with a seductive praline tinged entry, a killer line of acidity and a tender but sustained finish that is just very Les Clos. (NM)