This wine comes from a warm, dry vintage, but it doesn’t retain the heat. On the contrary, it is delicate, agile and elegant, as are the rest of Palacios’ wines this year from Priorat. Only the tannin texture, which is slightly firmer and more present this year, shows the vintage character. Immense purity from its raspberry, pomegranate, mineral and white pepper notes, with touches of grilled herbs and lard. Not quite full-bodied, but the mineral tension gives it elasticity and weight. This is still closer to the more delicate and refined 2021 than to the richer and more concentrated 2020 in style, despite its vintage warmth. Stony in the finish. Drink or hold.

The 2022 L'Ermita wasn't bottled when I tasted it in January 2024. They selected the grapes from 2.28 hectares out of the total 4.7 hectares planted in 1909, 1939 and 1996 to produce this red classified as Gran Vinya Classificada, the top of the quality hierarchy in the Priorat appellation. It was produced with a blend of 92% Garnacha, 7% Cariñena and 1% of the local whites, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez fermented with part of full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with a maceration of 23 days followed by an élevage in French oak oval foudres that is expected to last 14 months. The parameters are 14.5% alcohol, pH of 3.49 and 4.87 grams of acidity. This is always the more complete wine here; it feels reticent, a little closed and shy, insinuating, nuanced and subtle. It has a seamless and solid palate with very fine tannins and a balanced mouthfeel. They expect to fill some 5,000 bottles in March 2024. (LG)

The gem in the crown of Álvaro Palacios, L'Ermita hails from a spectacular, north-facing vineyard with vines up to 110 years old. The wine is as evocative as the vineyard itself; beautifully wild, yet clearly defined. Ripe, earthy cherry and strawberry fruit, white pepper, wild flowers and just a touch of liquorice. There's an elegance and fluidity to the wine that is rare in Priorat, with such high ABV levels, but the star here is the flavour. Endless. A beautiful wine.