Light yellow-gold. A complex bouquet evokes poached pear, melon, anise and vanilla, with smoke and nutmeg topnotes. Juicy and precise on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering sappy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of candied fig. Dusty minerals add cut to the finish, which features sweet vanilla bean and candied ginger qualities. I really like this chardonnay;s blend of richness and vivacity. This bottling has a stellar track record for aging, if you're one of the half dozen people out there who actually cellars their California chardonnay. (JR)