The 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru derives from a 0.13-hectare parcel that's in only its second year of production. Offering up aromas of white flowers, pear, green apple, honeycomb and toasted nuts, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and good depth for such a young vine cuvée. I've wanted to visit Domaine Marc Morey for several years, as this discreet Chassagne-Montrachet has long produced excellent wines that fly somewhat under the radar. Its origins go back to great-grandfather Fernand Morey, whose whites and reds I've adored and who presided over winemaking between 1919 and around 1950. The eponymous Marc Morey was his son, who ran the domaine for the second half of the twentieth century. Today, it's Sabine Mollard who presides, having joined the family estate in 2003. Fruit is gently crushed and pressed pneumatically, with a short and comparatively static cycle, followed by debourbage overnight at 12 degrees centigrade and the beginning of alcoholic fermentation in tank before barreling down. Working with a wide variety of coopers (including Chassin and François Frères), Sabine stirs the lees until the end of malolactic fermentation. Regional appellations see nine months in barrel, with the rest racked to tank just before harvest and bottled, under natural cork, in early spring.(WK)

The 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a mineral-driven, obdurate nose that you might presume derives from a cooler growing season. Subtle petrichor/wet pavement aromas intermix with sea spray. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely creamy texture, vanilla mixed with orange rind and tangerine. There’s fine depth, though I prefer the precision of the VIrondot and Caillerets. However, it will surely mature beautifully in bottle.(NM)