Nicolas Groffier produced a classic Bonnes Mares from his one-hectare holding, with dark damson plum and mulberry fruit aromas and hints of cedar, smoke, and pepper. The structure is firmly tannic, solid, and dense, but not heavy or ungainly – muscular elegance, one might say. The parcel is in one solid piece near the Morey end of the village; Nicolas describes it as being 75% terres rouges and 25% terres blanches; the grapes are entirely fermented as whole clusters with a gentle extraction, and the resulting wine is ageing in cask (50% new).(CC)

Super expressive, this red starts out with effusive aromas of toasty, smoky oak, black cherry, blackberry, violet and smoked meat flavors. This is both open and solidly built, with vegetal accents and a long, subtle finish. Dovetails nicely on the prolonged aftertaste. Best from 2030 through 2047.—B.S.