This is also wonderfully fresh and bright with its array of relatively deeply pitched aromas of cassis, black raspberry and a hint of smoked meat character. The rich and quite generously proportioned medium weight flavors don't possess the same driving minerality but do offer even better power on the chalky and youthfully austere finish that could also use better depth so a few years of keeping should prove beneficial.

Rich and ripe, the 2022 Marsannay Clos de Jeu delivers notes of minty cherries, berries and spices deftly framed by new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy, with attractive depth and plenitude, it concludes with an expansive finish. Cyril Audoin presides over this 14-hectare Marsannay reference point, and he has produced excellent wines in both colors (to say nothing of a benchmark rosé) in the 2022 vintage. Soils are cultivated mechanically, and yields are kept moderate in the vineyards. In the winery, extractions are gentle and élevage lasts two winters, beginning in barrels (mostly from François Frères) followed by some months in tank. The style is pure and seamless, emphasizing bright fruit tones and supple tannins in reds and texture combined with freshness in white. What's more, the wines are admirably consistent from vintage to vintage.(WK)