2017 Fèlsina Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (375ml)

Fully rancio and citrusy, with candied orange zest, nuts and dried figs. This old-fashioned style shines on the palate, with elegance, depth, a silky texture, weight, balanced sweetness and a super-tense finish. (AF)

The process is a painstaking labor of love. A blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes are hand-harvested and then hung to dry (appassimento) in airy lofts for months, concentrating their sugars and flavors. The thick, sweet juice is then pressed and sealed in small oak and chestnut barrels, called caratelli, where it ferments and ages slowly for at least a decade in the vinsantaia—a process that exposes it to the natural temperature fluctuations of the seasons. It is rich and lusciously sweet but with a vibrant, electrifying acidity that cuts through the richness, preventing it from ever feeling cloying. This is a wine to be sipped slowly on its own at the end of a meal, or paired with the classic Cantucci (almond biscotti). A small bottle will last for weeks after opening, its flavors continuing to evolve. This wine is immortal; you can keep it in the cellar for generations.