A brooding mix of steeped plums, spice box and worn leather emanates up from the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino. This is soft-textured and playful on the palate, with bright red fruits and lively acidity that creates a juicy sensation. A collection of saline minerals and fine tannins mingle throughout the unexpectedly mouthwatering finale. The 2018 may not be the powerful Brunello that most readers expect, but it is a lovely and pure interpretation of Sangiovese fruit. (EG)