The 2021 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc was tasted one month prior to bottling, hence the parenthetical rating. Scents of crushed stone accent notes of apricot, pineapple and lime on the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied. In the mouth, this is straight, almost severe; it tells you when to jump and how high, with zesty, briny notes lingering long on the finish. No matter how much time one spends with Michel Chapoutier, he always manages to say something surprising. As an owner of biodynamically farmed properties in the Rhône, a participant in several joint ventures, a proprietor in numerous wine regions, owner of a large négociant business and a former president of Inter Rhône (the region's trade body), he has a global perspective that's probably unmatched in the Rhône.(JC)

Piercing intensity on the nose, there's mango, candied citrus peels and salt. Only medium-bodied, but it's an athletic, precise and hugely energetic Ermite, with really driving, focused acidity and immense salty minerality. Straight, long, and intense. Rather than the extract and concentration of some recent warmer vintages, this has immense drive. (MW)

Not yet bottled (this cuvée always sees a slightly longer élevage), the 2021 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc comes from a mix of limestone and granite soils and is still resting in 25% new demi-muids. If there's a white of the vintage, this might be it. Honeyed lemons, quince, mango, and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality all define the aromatics, and it's medium to full-bodied, deep, concentrated, and pure, with an undeniable salinity on the finish. As usual, this tight, focused, and backward Hermitage needs at least 3-4 years of bottle age.